Murghab:
When paddled: early Oct. 2008
Volume: 200 cfs at Murghab town to 1000 cfs at confluence with Bartang
To paddle through Lake Sarez you need a special permit from the Ministry of Emergency Situations in Dushanbe. Below Murghab town, the river is flat, windy, and shallow. It passes some small towns and an awesome hot spring at Eli Su. Shortly before the confluence with the Pshart, the river constricts and drops. It is possible to portage along river left at water level. After this there is class II/III until the river ends in Lake Sarez. There are few camping spots along the shores of Lake Sarez, and the wind often kicks up in the afternoon. Camping is possible where some tributaries enter the lake. Portage the Usoi dam on river left on a herding path through the boulders and along cliffs. Below the dam there is continuous fast class III/IV until Barchedev. Then the whitewater gets smaller until the Bartang.
Recs: Getting permission can be a pain, but it is a very scenic and isolated paddle. Don’t go for the whitewater.
Pleasure: Pain 5:4 (you might have to watch hours of the commander’s son’s judo videos to get permission)